Hand-Forged San Mai Tanto#2-(PART 1)-[OC]englmanRank: #1573BlocksBlocks prevnext Prev Next WOAH BROH, NO PREDESIGN!? join list: englmanOC (680 subs)Mention Clicks: 22364Msgs Sent: 106732Mention History That's right, this time I decided to do the forging first and then design the knife "as I go." That's something you do when your hand forge-welding results are.. Inconsistent lol. But anyway! We're starting this billet with 1095 and 15N20: A high-nickel steel that doesn't etch well. Which is favorable, as it will give the final knife much more contrastLets get things started with a short video this time of the forging I'm starting to REALLY enjoy forge-welding by hand. It's challenging but that makes it oddly fun. Especially when it's successfulAnd here's what we've ended up with so far! Time for lots of clean-upWe'll start first with cutting off the bit of 1095 that I used for the handleGood deal! We're properly consolidated on this endAs well as on the point side! Now it's time to remove all that nasty fire-scaleThank God for low-grit belts and my 2x72in belt sander. That thing truly is incredibleLots of deep scale though.. That SHOULD come out with a bit more flattening though, and if not, definitely once the bevels are ground inBut first things first, lets use some Dykem Blue Metal Stain and to get this thing ready for flattening.Just as I thought, the flattening process took out a lot of the deep scale, but still left a little. I think I let my piece get too hot, or maybe didn't use enough flux A lesson for next time!But after the flattening, we now have a thinner and more even blade shape to work with. This will make the bevel grinding MUCH easier and far more accurateBut before we get to that, we need to profile the blades final shape. Here I've used the ol'sharpie to mark out the shape it'd like.And with the help of my lovely grinders, I get the blade to the proper shapeAww yissssBut those shoulders need to be ground perfectly. So I break out my new file-guide and use a machinists 90degree angle to align the guide to the spine of the Tanto. Yay accuracy~Also yay files~With that, I re-Dykem and prepare for the bevel grinding!I scribe a set of lines down what will become the edge of the Tanto, being sure to leave it thick enough for heat-treatment.I will have to be especially careful with the tip though, as I need to leave it thicker than this, AND as perfectly even as possible to prevent warping. Small note: It isn't shown here, but I will also be grinding/filing a very small chamfer down the spine of the Tanto. After the initial bevel-grinding is complete, we will be able to see two things: 1) Were my forge-welds solid. 2) A peek at the pattern. But that's all for now! What a cliff-hanger right? Thank you all so much for your continued support and as always, have a wonderful week FJ Very Special Thanks to My Patrons! Apprentice Tier: Phwoarr Striker Tier: CmdrFalken Power Hammer Tier: Beezussutami, Chalex, Sharkhat, Ulcis Patreon: You need to login to view this link YouTube: You need to login to view this link Profile: You need to login to view this link join list: englmanOC (680 subs)Mention Clicks: 22364Msgs Sent: 106732Mention History Join the mention list if you enjoy my content! I post every week! prevnext +98 -Favorite +Favorite Unblock User's Content Block User's Content
