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#23329 - thesweetscientist
Reply 0
(07/25/2016) [-]
When I go in reverse and fully lock the steering wheel left, sometimes I hear a loud bang from my right front part of the car. Today it banged more then usual. People got scared. Fun tiems.

What could it be? It's just one bang, so I don't think it's the CV joint.

And my brakes are shit, I'm changing them soon, shure, but could that be related? As I said, it only happens when I go in reverse and fully lock the steering wheel.
#23334 to #23329 - benderisgreat
Reply 0
(8 hours ago) [-]
Do you have a car jack?
#23335 to #23334 - thesweetscientist
Reply 0
(5 hours ago) [-]
Shure.
#23336 to #23335 - benderisgreat
Reply 0
(1 hour ago) [-]
You can jack up the front of the car and wiggle the wheel to see if it has any play, if it does then it's the ball joint.
#23331 to #23329 - arachnofondler
Reply 0
(9 hours ago) [-]
ball joint
#23332 to #23331 - thesweetscientist
Reply 0
(9 hours ago) [-]
Ball joints bang like that when going in reverse and on full lock?
#23333 to #23332 - arachnofondler
Reply 0
(8 hours ago) [-]
ball joints will bang just about anytime you turn the wheel. especially at full lock.
#23330 to #23329 - benderisgreat
Reply 0
(07/26/2016) [-]
Sounds like a ball joint, but i've never of one making that much noise. What car is it?
#23317 - nigalthornberry
Reply +1
(07/24/2016) [-]
The clasic quote i have for this is "ran when parked"
#23318 to #23317 - nigalthornberry
Reply +1
(07/24/2016) [-]
Rare
#23320 to #23318 - fukkentyranitar
Reply 0
(07/24/2016) [-]
Never winter driven.
#23325 to #23320 - siddarthagautama
Reply 0
(07/24/2016) [-]
No engine or transmission. Runs and drives good.
#23326 to #23325 - fukkentyranitar
Reply 0
(07/24/2016) [-]
Runs like new.
#23327 to #23326 - siddarthagautama
Reply 0
(07/24/2016) [-]
I have a nissan hardbody.

Rear tires about 80% left (not mentioning they are eight years old)
#23315 - joshlol
Reply 0
(07/24/2016) [-]
Mazda Miata MX5 ND

vs

Fiat 124 Spider

Thoughts?
I must say I think I prefer the exterior styling on the 124 but I'd probably end up going for the miata
#23316 to #23315 - citruslord
Reply 0
(07/24/2016) [-]
Styling on both is pretty meh overall. Although I really do like the look of the Miata RF i believe they are releasing next year.
#23321 to #23316 - joshlol
Reply 0
(07/24/2016) [-]
yeah agreed but I must admit I wish the roof folded FULLY down into the car like it does on the prht nc or the bmw z4
#23322 to #23321 - citruslord
Reply 0
(07/24/2016) [-]
Honestly I wish it didn't even fold down. I'd likely never have it down, think it would be best as a full fastback.
#23323 to #23322 - joshlol
Reply 0
(07/24/2016) [-]
suit yourself

I drive top down every time i get the chance
#23324 to #23323 - citruslord
Reply 0
(07/24/2016) [-]
I like music and fastbacks, so that's where I'm coming from, otherwise I'd be with you.
#23319 to #23316 - fukkentyranitar
Reply 0
(07/24/2016) [-]
The hardtop miata is the most beautiful mazda ever crafted since the pre-facelift FD RX-7.
#23285 - profkitty
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
My car won't start, earlier in the day it started it up fine drove fine till I got home and sat for 12 hours till I needed to head into work, when I would put the key into the ignition the lights and everything would come on but it would not crank at all it was silent. When I came home I tried jumping the car when we got the batteries hooked together and waiting 2ish minutes I tried turning it over and it was silent besides a single pop noise from the front of the vehicle. I don't know if I blew a fuse or something shorted out but after that point nothing comes on anymore, lights, radio, dashboard, nothing. I was wondering if anyone has any guesses on what is wrong and what I added onto that. Please and Thank you.
#23286 to #23285 - benderisgreat
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
Hopefully the pop sound was the solenoid (which is normal). It's most likely the starter. I don't know why the interior/dash would shut off probably a fuse. What car is it?
#23287 to #23286 - profkitty
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
Honda Civic LX 2005, it has 200,000+ miles on it got it 1.5 years ago.
#23288 to #23287 - benderisgreat
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
How did you have the jumpers hooked up? Black to black, red to red?
#23289 to #23288 - profkitty
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
For the first time no everything was on right with the jumper car, but on the dead car(mine) it was reversed the first time, the negative went on the positive and when i connected the positive to the negative sparks happened and i took them of quickly, I was lost at first because it had these on, and the red for jumper cables is positive but the red ring was negative. My fault entirely. But second time around everything was hooked up correctly, I made sure they had good contacts.
#23290 to #23289 - benderisgreat
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
Hopefully the fuses took the blow. Look for the interior fuse box somewhere under the the steering wheel and start pulling fuses (one a a time so you don't mix them up) and look for blown fuses. You'll want a flash light.
#23291 to #23290 - profkitty
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
Everything is back on and the car is starting for now, all fuses are good. I'm wondering if starters give and go when starting to fail?
#23292 to #23291 - benderisgreat
Reply +1
(07/22/2016) [-]
They do actually. An old trick, not recommended btw, is to hit it with handle of a hammer. But it may just be a rusty ground, if you live in a place with bad winters where they use lots of salt, it's a possibility.
#23294 to #23292 - profkitty
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
Maybe I think i got it from here though i learned on how to change out the starter if need be, it's simple, I just need to make sure enough it's that and not the neutral switch or as you said cabling wear. Thanks for the much needed insight and help it goes greatly appreciated. Be my first personal repair on this car, will give updates if need be.
#23295 to #23294 - benderisgreat
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
No problem! That's what I'm here for. Let me know how you make out and if you need anything.
#23282 - RuskiyPimp
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
Warning this is pretty morbid!

My dad's friend asked us to take a look at his jet ski because it wasn't running for some reason. We pulled out the third spark plug from the front and saw that a good half inch of it was completely sheared off.

Here's what we found when we completely removed the head today.
#23283 to #23282 - RuskiyPimp
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
Here's the piston:
#23293 to #23283 - nigalthornberry
Reply +4
(07/22/2016) [-]
"Ran When Parked"
#23313 to #23293 - anon
Reply 0
(07/24/2016) [-]
"No low ballers and tire kickers, I know what I have."
#23284 to #23283 - benderisgreat
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
Ouch, what make is it?
#23302 to #23284 - RuskiyPimp
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
4-tec supercharged Seadoo gtx. It's a jet ski. Pretty hefty engine for a jet ski though. It's got about 1500cc and is throwing out like 138Kw.
#23304 to #23302 - benderisgreat
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
He must have beat the shit out of it.
#23305 to #23304 - RuskiyPimp
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
Might've tried to run it outside of the water. Then again, the piston near the front has rust on the sleeve so water was somehow getting into the head. Either way, he's screwed. We told him that he's gonna need a new engine because there's no way we're going to take the time and money to fix that.
#23307 to #23305 - benderisgreat
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
Yeah, it must have had a blown head gasket. You can tell it was burning coolant by the white around the exhaust valve.
#23270 - andrz
Reply 0
(07/21/2016) [-]
Need a new car. I want something reliable, but something that also looks alright. My budget is $5000. I don't know enough about cars to do any work on them myself, so the car needs to be in good shape, and last for about 5 years, hopefully without any big expenses. From what i've seen so far, i really like the Audi A4 and A3 (2003-2005), the Mazda 3 (2005) and some of the VW Golfs (2004-2008ish) The ones with nicer grilles, headlights and bumpers; Something like the picture.


I have however heard that Audis are expensive to maintain, and that they regularly need work from a mechanic, and that their parts are a bit expensive.

I've also heard that the Mazda's has some really bad rust issues, especially the older models. I don't know if this goes for the Mazda 3 (2005), so if anyone has some experience with this car, i'd appreciate some insight on the matter.

Im open for any suggestions for other cars aswell, and all suggestions are greatly appreciated!

#23281 to #23270 - benderisgreat
Reply +1
(07/22/2016) [-]
Stay away from German cars specially VWs they are extremely expensive to fix. Old Mazdas are turds and since $5000 won't get you a new one... Although they're not fast or good looking, you can't go wrong with a Camry for reliability.
#23296 to #23281 - andrz
Reply +1
(07/22/2016) [-]
What do you consider an "old" mazda? The one i've got my eyes on is a 2005.
#23297 to #23296 - benderisgreat
Reply +1
(07/22/2016) [-]
Anything 1996 and before. That's before Ford bought out the company. I'm not a fan of Ford but they're a hell of a lot better after 96'.
#23298 to #23297 - andrz
Reply +1
(07/22/2016) [-]
I see. I've heard mazdas 2003ish + are pretty good cars, but that some of them has really bad rust problems. Especially the Mazda 6. And especially the older ones. I haven't really heard anything about rust issues with the Mazda 3 2005, so im curious if that one has any big rust issues.
#23299 to #23298 - benderisgreat
Reply +1
(07/22/2016) [-]
It really depends where you are, if you have bad winters where they uses lots of salt on the road. Regardless they're made of poor quality metal because it's basically a Japanese Ford. But I can't tell you what to do, find one you like.
#23300 to #23299 - andrz
Reply +1
(07/22/2016) [-]
I live in norway and the roads are basically covered with salt the entire winter, so i guess i'll see if i cant find something better suited for our winters. Thanks for your help!
#23301 to #23300 - benderisgreat
Reply +1
(07/22/2016) [-]
You can still get anything you want, as long as it's in good condition to begin with. You will just want to have the chassis oiled every year.
#23303 to #23301 - andrz
Reply +1
(07/22/2016) [-]
I've been pretty sloppy with cleaning and taking care of my old (first) car, but im planning to take much better care of my next one. Josh mentioned some antirust treatments below that he meant would be sufficent. I posted some info about the Mazda in >>#23276

I barely know anything about cars, but this one seems to be in pretty good shape imo. Both set of tires are also new, and it has had yearly service according to it's owner.
#23306 to #23303 - benderisgreat
Reply +1
(07/22/2016) [-]
Nice, just so you know I'm extremely bias towards GM. But I can't tell you what to do. I'm sure whatever you get will last a while as long as it's maintained. You can even do its regular maintenance like oil changes, it's not hard and it will save you a few bucks.
#23308 to #23306 - andrz
Reply +1
(07/22/2016) [-]
There's not a lot of GM produced cars in Norway, but i've seen a couple of Opel Astra and Vectras i like. Are they reliable/generally good cars?
#23309 to #23308 - benderisgreat
Reply +1
(07/22/2016) [-]
I can't be sure about them because I've never even seen one in person but I do know the drivetrain is the same and that will last longer than the road beneath you.
#23310 to #23309 - andrz
Reply +1
(07/22/2016) [-]
Sounds good. Thank you so much for all your help bro.
#23311 to #23310 - benderisgreat
Reply 0
(07/22/2016) [-]
Sure thing! Hit me up if you ever wanna shoot the shit.
#23280 to #23270 - citruslord
Reply +1
(07/22/2016) [-]
I've got a 2008 Mazda 3 and haven't noticed any issues. Been reliable so far up to 115k miles.
But I do live in South Texas where ice and snow are myths, so no salt on the roads ever. Even my 240sx looks clean on the underside, and those seem pretty notorious for rotting.
#23274 to #23270 - fukkentyranitar
Reply +1
(07/21/2016) [-]
Don't touch the Mazdas if you like having a good looking car. They rust as the first sight of moisture. You could get a clean Civic sedan for 5k. Audis are money pits. Fuck that shit. You could look for a Corolla/Matrix XRS. If you looked hard enough, you could find a mint condition Sentra SE-R for under 5000. You could get a VW Jetta or Golf but you probably won't find anything but a base model without a lot of searching.
#23276 to #23274 - andrz
Reply 0
(07/21/2016) [-]
That's what i feared. I don't know if it's true but i've heard that hondas are actually even worse than most mazdas when i comes to rust. I live in Norway, not many people here, so it's really difficult to find any modified cars in good shape, within my budget.

Here's the mazda i was thinking about buying. The site is in Norwegian, but it's been used for about 65 000 miles, it's a 2005 model, 1.6 engine and has 105 horsepower.
It seems to be in great shape, im just worried about the rust. Is it really as bad as you made it sound?

m.finn.no/car/used/ad.html?finnkode=79107145

Any thoughts on the BMW 3 and 5 series?
#23278 to #23276 - fukkentyranitar
Reply +1
(07/21/2016) [-]
And Hondas are usually solid as long as take care of them.
#23279 to #23278 - andrz
Reply 0
(07/21/2016) [-]
Gotcha! I'll spend some more time and see if i cant find any decent golfs or something along those lines. I'll consider the Civic aswell, altough not a lot of them for sale nearby atm. Thanks a lot for your wise words!
#23277 to #23276 - fukkentyranitar
Reply +1
(07/21/2016) [-]
You should be fine as long as you rust proof it properly. The sheet metal is subpar so I wouldn't personally risk it.
#23273 to #23270 - joshlol
Reply +1
(07/21/2016) [-]
would steer clear of any audi's if you only want the car to last 5 years or so,

anything that goes wrong may be an expensive fix and if it's just a temporary car why sink too much cash into it?

I don't really know much about the mazda 3 tho if yuo have 5k why not just buy a miata?
#23275 to #23273 - andrz
Reply 0
(07/21/2016) [-]
Are the miatas any better in terms of rust? They look a bit smal for me, and there are barely any for sale where i live. Nor do i have the skills or knowledge to take good enough care of older cars that need some fixing every now and then.
#23271 to #23270 - andrz
Reply 0
(07/21/2016) [-]
joshlol, you know anything about mazdas rust issues?
#23272 to #23271 - joshlol
Reply +1
(07/21/2016) [-]
follow this and you'll be fine
www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=46873
#23269 - joshlol
Reply 0
(07/21/2016) [-]
how do you react?
#23328 to #23269 - thesweetscientist
Reply 0
(07/25/2016) [-]
Would smack a bitch.

Even if it wasn't my car they fucked up.
#23314 to #23312 - joshlol
Reply 0
(07/24/2016) [-]
yeah man this story genuinely annoys me so much
#23266 - benderisgreat
Reply 0
(07/21/2016) [-]
My cousin (I have A LOT of cousins) has a 40' Chevy we're going to restore but he's torn between the original I-6 motor or a variety of small blocks I have laying around. What do you guys think?
#23268 to #23266 - backwoodsexplain
Reply 0
(07/21/2016) [-]
350
#23267 to #23266 - arachnofondler
Reply 0
(07/21/2016) [-]
sbc or bbc would be cool. LS is starting to become overdone.
#23263 - arachnofondler
Reply +1
(07/19/2016) [-]
Alright, since I still can't get enough of the car here's a quick video of a cold startup. This thing is absolutely vicious.
#23264 to #23263 - backwoodsexplain
Reply +1
(07/20/2016) [-]
that sounds glorious
#23251 - WATCHAGUNADOBOUTIT
Reply 0
(07/19/2016) [-]
I got a dent in my Dodge Dart on the passenger door (I suck ass at posting pictures but I can make an attempt if it helps). It's a dime sized dent, not too deep, and it chipped a little of the paint (my friend hit my door on a concrete block kind of thing at a gas station).

How much should this cost me? I went to a place that did work on my car before, and they were quoting me 500 bucks, for a little fucking dent. $400 labor and $100 for the paint materials. This is way too high right? Anyone have experience with this know how much I should spend/where I should go?
#23255 to #23251 - arachnofondler
Reply 0
(07/19/2016) [-]
I think it'd help to see a photo. Depends what the dent is in, where exactly it's at, etc. If it's plastic, I'd put a heat gun behind it and push the fucker back into shape. If it's metal and in an easy place, those dent pullers at your local parts store work pretty damn well.
#23261 to #23255 - WATCHAGUNADOBOUTIT
Reply 0
(07/19/2016) [-]
Let me get back to you lol, that photo is terrible I just realized
#23262 to #23261 - arachnofondler
Reply 0
(07/19/2016) [-]
lol no worries
#23260 to #23255 - WATCHAGUNADOBOUTIT
Reply 0
(07/19/2016) [-]
I can take one later but this is what I took on my phone in the garage